| Month | High | Low | Rain |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 31 | 20 | 2.30 |
| Feb | 32 | 19 | 1.90 |
| Mar | 39 | 27 | 2.10 |
| Apr | 49 | 34 | 1.90 |
| May | 62 | 45 | 2.40 |
| Jun | 68 | 52 | 2.90 |
| Jul | 71 | 55 | 3.10 |
| Aug | 69 | 53 | 3.50 |
| Sep | 60 | 45 | 3.80 |
| Oct | 49 | 38 | 3.90 |
| Nov | 39 | 29 | 3.50 |
| Dec | 32 | 22 | 2.60 |
Even at a distance, I sensed the percussion through the soles of my boots as the bear relentlessly pounded his massive paws against the ice, determined to break through to the sea.
With our guide's help, we spot it, a faint trail of black dirt on the pristine snow that marks the entrance to the polar bear's den. We ski to a ridge with views of both the den and the ocean pack ice, and we wait, absorbed by the sparkling silence. Soon the mother polar bear emerges, nosing the air and scanning the surrounding empty pack ice. She then belly-slides headfirst down the snowy slope. Two cubs follow, tumbling and rolling into a furry heap at their mother's feet. She ushers them toward an iceberg, moving them gently along with her massive paws. It's time for a hunting lesson. The nearby ringed seals, having just birthed their pups, take anxious note. In the distance, a flock of eiders makes a frothy landing in the frigid sea.
The next day we're on the lookout for male bears. We travel via snowmobile, each of us gliding solo over alabaster terrain, venturing further along the coast. In the past week, our navigational skills have become more refined, and we perceive the grayish tinge of a mogul or an undulating drift, altering our path for a smooth skating ride. Our eyes scan the horizon: we know the male bears are out there, roaming alone, looking for food, and warming in the ever-present Arctic sun.
Mats Forsberg has led most of the world's leading polar bear researchers into the extreme Arctic wilderness. An expert on polar bear tracking and observation, Mats has even guided BBC production teams into the region's polar bear habitat. He has also explored the region solo on skis and has led expeditions on snowmobiles from a base tent camp.
Arrive in Longyearbyen, where you and your guide review the expedition's route.
Prepare for survival in polar extremes: review equipment and safety procedures, and practice maneuvering your snowmobile with a pack sled. You carry everything you need on this adventure.
Snowmobile south through mountain passes to the fjord area of Van Mijenfjorden. During the 45-mile journey, you may encounter high-arctic reindeer, arctic fox and ptarmigan.
Snowmobiling 45 miles further, you reach the remote east coast, where land meets pack ice and the sea. This is polar bear country: you are now entirely dependent on yourself, your equipment, and your guide's knowledge and experience. Select your base campsite and set up your tent, where you ready yourself for the challenges ahead.
Venture into the coastal habitat in search of Ursus maritimus, the world's largest land carnivore. Depending on weather and distances, you trek, ski and/or snowmobile, staking out varied vantage points to observe the bears. During this season, females and cubs are emerging from hibernation.
Lone males, thin from the long winter, hunt and track prey. Spitsbergen is the last protected natural polar bear habitat, and with a bear population of 4,500, sightings should be excellent. Eider duck, auk and other seabirds, as well as ringed seal, also inhabit this region. Your daily activities are dependent on the bears.
Pack your sled and snowmobile back to Longyearbyen. This can take all day, depending on weather. Arrive back in time for a warming farewell reception at a traditional restaurant.
An early morning breakfast before departing Spitzbergen.
